EYEGLASS CASE PATTERN

Hi Everyone,

I thought you might like to try this idea for a gift or craft item.  It’s a case for eyeglasses. I’ll try not to make any mistakes but bare with me.

Materials used:
Bramwell 4 ply in 2 colors
Optional: small piece of iron on fusible fleece
Machine - E6000, serger (any km that will do double jacquard or FI)
Gauge:  1” = 25.8 rows and 7.46 sts (check my calculations please!)
E6000 tension = 4 ¼ - 4 ¼
Technique 180 or double bed birdseye jacquard

You want to make a rectangle that is approximately 7.5” x 14.25” after laundered.

You will be making a long rectangle that when finished will make a lined pocket that glasses will fit into.  It will be folded and sewn along 2 sides, then turned and sewn on the last edge which be the end of your lining.

For mine I programmed in initials one above the other with 3 rows programmed between the initials. The outside looks a little like this:

------.
        .
  G   .
  P   .
       .
------

The dots are going to be on a fold so your rectangle will be twice as wide when knitted.
You will program initials, if you are using them, a little to the right of center on the left half to allow for a seam allowance on the far left.

I used needles 28-0-28 with initials centered over needle #13 on the left of zero (or -13 when programming). The tech I used is 180 or double bed BIRDSEYE JACQUARD THROUGHOUT.

CON over the above 56 sts. RCO knit to R44 in tech 180 or birdseye jacquard (in solid color without a design). RC0 knit in pattern (initials) to RC152 in tech 180.  My pattern was 108 rows in height. In other words, I knit 44 rows plain tech 180 or birdseye jacquard, 108 rows in pattern for the initials, and 44 rows more (in solid color without design) for a total of *196 rows.  This will complete the outside of your case. - Don’t stop knitting yet.  You can reverse colors here if you want to have the lining in contrast color.  Continue knitting with RC0 knit to *RC172 in tech 180 with no pattern.  This will make your lining shorter and the outside edge of the case will fold to the inside about ½”.  If you choose to knit the same # of rows as the outside, your contrast color will be at the very top edge when the lining is tucked in place inside the pocket.
Take off on several rows of WY and serge the open sts of WY, steam it, and then wash and dry it.
 **Later you will serge off this seam when you are finishing your pocket.

Next cut a piece of fusible fleece the width of the lining and about 1” shorter than the length of the lining.  Steam iron it to the part that will be the lining on the WRONG side, about ½” below the knitting line that separates the outside of your pocket from the lining (follow directions on the fusible pkg if you are ironing it on - it only takes about 5 seconds of steam to fuse it), and use a PRESSING CLOTH while you are fusing. You want the fleece shorter at the bottom by about ½” so the seam will not be so bulky when sewn later.

Fold the long tube you have in half, RIGHT sides together lengthwise.  Sew along the long edge being careful to match up the colors if you have reversed color for the lining (a little basting is a good idea).  I did this seam with a serger as this is now thick.  Next sew along the bottom edge of the tube with the design on it.  You should have only one opening now.  It is at the opening of the lining.  You now turn it inside out as you might a sock.

Your pocket is now right side out. Pull or push out the corners of the bottom a little, whichever is easiest for you.  When it looks right, sew the last opening closed with the serger.  This seam will be on the outside now, but it will be at the bottom of the lining on the inside and will not show later. Now push the lining to the inside to finish your pocket.  You will need to do some more smoothing of the last seam from the inside to get it shaped properly.  Steam it a little and you’re done.

Options would be to use different yarns, pellon that can be sewn or fused, or other batting you might have.  I personally like the fusible fleece because it has the padding I want (plus some stretch so I could get my hand inside when I turned the long rectangle right side out).   You could also use fabric for the lining and add the padding to it.

You can use any fairisle pattern you like.   I’ve tried to write this so you can make it on a Brother or other machine.  Use your own imagination and choose a double bed pattern you have if you don’t want initials.  Once you have made one, it will go quickly the next time.  Remember, you are just making a lined pocket.